Woodwork UK

jake

Zobo-style forstners with a pilot (which may or may not be self-drilling depending on how you want to use them) would help.

Below is a link to a piece about the Festool branded ones (which is how I came across them).

http://www.core77.com/posts/25985/Festo ... t-The-Zobo

jake

This is where I sourced the glass paint from http://www.avko.co.uk/product-category/surface/glass/ (they recommended the second glazier and were good to deal with, the first glazier used Movac paint). I would use proper glass paint, I think it is silane modified so that glass's hydrophilic nature do...

jake

Only a one-off from me, but I used MS polymer to stick it up, including a bit which goes horizontally under an overhang and it hasn't dropped yet in erm years. Have to be v careful with silicone as the acetic acid in the non-neutral cure stuff will attack paint.

jake

This was 4mm. It may have been some sort of spectrum oddity, as the paint both glaziers sourced (from different companies) was right against the NCS sample card, and if you put the sample card behind the glass it looked fine, but on application it just washed out. It was miles off, not just a bit. W...

jake

Make sure you use Low Iron if a light colour, it'll change the paint colour with the pigments in the glass. Even low iron glass changes the colour. It took 3 tries with 2 companies to get our splashbacks to match the yellow laminate, even though the paint was to the same NCS colour ref and was perf...

jake

F+B are generally renowned for being carp paint, I don't think the solvent versions are held in any higher regard than their waterbased stuff.

jake

Cost of birch ply is true, I don't think the ply would delaminate as long as you pilot drilled.

jake

Even easier would be screws straight down through the top into the legs. If you were to space, mark and drill the screws accurately, you could either use some smart looking screws (for eg look at spax stainless decking and timber cladding screws, or their washer head screws, etc) or you could counte...

jake

SDS-Max would be more best for hammer drilling oak.

jake

Thanks for everyone's nice comments. Unlike usual, I can't take much personal credit for much of it apart from speccing and paying for it, and the gates. I did strip the paint off the stonework which was hideous (at the same time I was stripping some cornices inside, I never want to see Peelaway aga...

jake

oops duplicate

jake

Should be back - Photobucket has been borked too over the last couple of days.

jake

Fecking Microsoft have crippled Onedrive apparently by changing it so it no longer allocates a static url to a document.

Will move them to imageshack or whatever I used to use.

jake

Got there at last a few weeks ago http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab300/jakeh6/WP_20160109_15_20_26_Pro_zpsog9bqumj.jpg http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab300/jakeh6/WP_20160109_15_20_40_Pro_zpsbhmptmom.jpg http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab300/jakeh6/WP_20160109_15_20_46_Pro_zpsvbfiyqjz.jpg...

jake

I hasve never used it for steaming but soil pipe comes in ABS (most pushfit systems) and PVC (more solvent weldable). PVC has a much higher melting temperature - like above 200c rather than 100c.

jake

Hmm food for thought cheers Mark, no not even started yet on the gates themselves.

jake

Alright bollox I'll just do what I want. :p

jake

Blades for mitre saws should have a negative hook angle (teeth lean backwards, not forwards into the cut). TS blades should have positive hook angles.

Wealden do decent blades or Cutting Solutions who at least used to be on here.

jake

As part of the endless renovation project, I get to do some woodwork hoorah. Some side-gates between my semi (no sniggering at the back) and my next-door neighbours semi (no sniggering at the back). One of the last parts of big push to do our frontage (new roof, tick, repointing, tick, strip back an...

jake

Yes 4mm is not going to make any difference. But, the blades for TS and mitre saws are very different so don't mix and match.

jake

There are loads around - often not labelled as such but if you look for things which say they are both adhesives and sealants they are usually ms polymer, and looking on the ingredients usually confirms, or saying things like sets under water is a giveaway. CT100 is expensive but very reliable in my...

jake

I like the name, Parquet Dave, and welcome. I'm just about to start thinking about pulling the 60sqm of rather lovely reclaimed partridgewood woodblock out of my shed (where it's been waiting for a few years) for my living rooms which are just about to be plastered. I might need to pick your brains ...

jake

No it's just f**king ace (apart from some bathroom specific crap I bought which has gone horribly yellow, at least I could paint it I suppose) and so much better than silicone.

jake

MS polymer

jake

MS polymer sealant is better than silicone, longer lived, ph neutral so glazing safe, and paintable to boot.

jake

Carcasses might be Frontline who I used, but there have been others mentioned.

jake

Duplex bars look rubbish, but in the absence of x-ray vision, how can you tell whether a glazing bar is a stick-on or not (assuming spacers in the unit behind the bar)? Apart from the fact that they be as elegantly slim as a single glazed proper bar (which slimlite can't match)? I don't really unde...

jake

Duplex bars look rubbish, but in the absence of x-ray vision, how can you tell whether a glazing bar is a stick-on or not (assuming spacers in the unit behind the bar)? Apart from the fact that they be as elegantly slim as a single glazed proper bar (which slimlite can't match)?

jake

MJ80 wrote:Good to know, looks ideal for my evil plans

Beats waterboarding?

jake

harveythewhiterabbit wrote:What about the deep red bit of groin?

Wrong website for that fella, you need to go see the clinic.

jake

They just pull, bolt on the other side, nothing to do with locking.

jake

I hope you got this for not too much more than the land value!

Hats off for dedication and effort, and just plain doing things thoroughly right.

jake

Nicely done!

(Is that fecking plastic on the inside of the dwarf wall?)

(oh and that poor lady of the statue had all her limbs brutally chopped off, is this like some warning to intruders, a modern head on a pole or something?)

jake

Is there a more specific specification? There are all sorts of things which will help preserve wood for a day or two, then obviously a spectrum from there up. So unless you have some more specifics the statement is almost meaningless (the ph of some urine would probably retard fungi etc for a few da...

jake

Lovely door. The proportions of the opening you had to work to are a bit odd for a single door.

jake

It will be silane primer and 3M VHB.

jake

Well the longer you can't see my TV but I can see mine the better.

But tomorrow is OK if you want to deliver frames then and start fixing on Thursday when the glass is due.

jake

Oh right I thought you mean the beads, not the fake inside bar. Yes some 6" nails should fix them to the glass nicely.

ps glass delivery on Thursday

jake

I happen to think that in this instance at least beads and bars can be differentiated. I'm terribly presumptive or do I mean prescriptive. I think the inside beads can be fixed with a 20g air pinner which might be present on site. And the fake-e-ola bars might nonetheless need some decent stuff rath...

jake

The epoxy resin and bulking agent for just those two laminates cost me something like £40- £45, roughly £15 a litre (two mixings of about 1.2- 1.5 litres each), including filler and catalyst ... I don't recall the exact figure now, but the relatively stress free mix, glue application, and first tim...

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