Cascamite Vs Titebond III Ultimate

[UncleSteve]

I've done a search, but not found anything.

Just wondering what's the best glue to use with oak?

I've been using Titebond III Ultimate, but was wondering about Cascamite powder. Is it as good or better for strength? Also I've found when varnishing over blobs (for the want of a better description) of Titebond it tends to go black (not nice looking).

What do others know please?

Thanks in advance.

(This partly arose from a stool I made in the early 70's out of recycled oak which has had loads of abuse over the years and still holding fast. This was glued with a powder glue. I made a pair of oak coffee tables and stuck the joints with PVA and they've come lose.)

[Meccarroll]

I've done a search, but not found anything.

Just wondering what's the best glue to use with oak?

I've been using Titebond III Ultimate, but was wondering about Cascamite powder. Is it as good or better for strength? Also I've found when varnishing over blobs (for the want of a better description) of Titebond it tends to go black (not nice looking).

What do others know please?

Thanks in advance.

(This partly arose from a stool I made in the early 70's out of recycled oak which has had loads of abuse over the years and still holding fast. This was glued with a powder glue. I made a pair of oak coffee tables and stuck the joints with PVA and they've come lose.)

I am by no means a expert on the subject of wood glue but have used many different types over my 40 years as a carpenter and joiner so have noticed how different glues last the test of time.

Cascamite is probably better for hardwoods, furniture and the like. Titebond III is more of an outdoor glue for general joinery (softwoods) but can also be used on hardwoods too. You need to have nice fitting joints for cascamite to work properly.

You could use acetone to clean the joints of oak prior to gluing and after for cleaning, which should help remove the acid in and around the joint it should help prevent the staining you have encountered. Be very careful not to use too much glue in the joint, experiment with a scrap piece so that when you fit and glued the joints together there is virtually no glue squeezed out.

Mark

[Leveller2911]

I've never used Titebond for anything but I'd be interested to know peoples thoughts too.. For windows and doors I always use Cascamite but after 25yrs of using it I still probably waste 25% of it.

I use PU glue for panels ,anything I need to glue up quickly and PVA D4 for kitchen face-frames but use cascamite when its cold in the workshop.

[Mike Jordan]

I use Cascamite for 90 percent of my work it's totally waterproof when cured and I find it cheap and easy to use. Most of my work is made in oak , the only difference I have noted is the acid content of the oak making the glue harden a little more quickly than on other timbers. I tend to use titebond II for small internal jobs that won't get wet because it's convenient to use from the dispenser with no waste. I normally buy Cascamite in 3 Kilo containers from a company called Adquik, they are very good on price. The only timbers that are not suited to the use of Cascamite are teak and Iroko, their high oil content prevents good adhesion of any glue other than epoxy resin systems. I do use make some small use of PU 15 minute glues and favour the wudcare brand. Mike.

[tusses]

What about Tite Bond PU ? I've used it with oak, and it just scrapes off .. not staining.

as for any other, you can mask the joints so no squeeze out gets on the wood

[Meccarroll]

What about Tite Bond PU ? I've used it with oak, and it just scrapes off .. not staining.

as for any other, you can mask the joints so no squeeze out gets on the wood

PU known AKA Polyurethane Glue, are generally banded as strong glues but in practice if used over a small wood joint area such as in furniture tend to be inferior to PVA or cascamite glues. Polyurathane glues are probabily best suited to gluing large areas that have voids such as none structural sheet material in wet conditions etc. In most cases I have seen this glue fail but it has mainly been because of poor application and poor joints. I have used this type of glue several times with good results but would not rely on it for small joints such as in furniture or even in sash construction.

Mark

[tusses]

I've mainly used it for outdoor use, and not had any fail yet .. but I was more posting for it's non staining properties, as per the original post

before I finished reading the OP .. I was thinking TBIII stains oak !

[woodsmith]

I did a test of wood glues for the woodworker magazine and I've put it on my website, under technical information, if you want to look at it ( there is a link in my signature).

I also did a long term test of weather resistance in both hard and soft wood. Cascamite was by far the worse glue, I think this is because it is so hard it couldn't cope with the wood movement in my unfinished joints. By far and away the best glue was Polyproof, a resorcinol two part adhesive. I tried a few polyurethane adhesives and Gorilla glue was the worst! All the PVAs performed the same with the D4 adhesives faring no better than Resin W weatherproof (although TB 3 was the strongest and most consistent PVA as regards joint strength)

Having spent years testing glues I now mostly use a D4 PVA that I get from my local builders merchant.

[UncleSteve]

Thanks for all the comments, all very educational.

Perhaps I didn't describe myself very well on the staining issue. Having taken another look at the stain, I don't think it was the glue, but a build up of varnish in an internal corner where I had over varnished allowing it to 'pile up' in the corner and gone black. The varnish is Ronseal Diamond Hard Gloss. Another thought was something out of the brush, but then it would have been all over the board. The jury is out on this one for the time being.

There was a mention of Gorilla glue. Yep I can confirm its weak, especially when used for gap filling/glueing. Not sure what its like with tight joints, but I thought the whole point of this expanding glue is to make up for slack joints???

....I'm off to follow Woodsmith's links

[Top Notch Joiner]

I've done a search, but not found anything.

Just wondering what's the best glue to use with oak?

I've been using Titebond III Ultimate, but was wondering about Cascamite powder. Is it as good or better for strength? Also I've found when varnishing over blobs (for the want of a better description) of Titebond it tends to go black (not nice looking).

What do others know please?

Thanks in advance.

(This partly arose from a stool I made in the early 70's out of recycled oak which has had loads of abuse over the years and still holding fast. This was glued with a powder glue. I made a pair of oak coffee tables and stuck the joints with PVA and they've come lose.)

I use Cascamite, for all external joinery. Brilliant stuff! It will not leave purple stains on oak either. Takes 2 minutes to mix up. I have never seen a stronger wood glue. Buy the genuine Cascamite brand though, instead of alternatives.

[tusses]

but I thought the whole point of this expanding glue is to make up for slack joints???

no ? Expanding is a side effect of how it reacts with moisture when curing

if you want to glue "sloppy" joints , then epoxy with a filler is the stuff

[Neil_C]

but I thought the whole point of this expanding glue is to make up for slack joints???

no ? Expanding is a side effect of how it reacts with moisture when curing

if you want to glue "sloppy" joints , then epoxy with a filler is the stuff

Cascamite will also fill "sloppy" joints.

[tusses]

Cascamite will also fill "sloppy" joints.

[Jez]

I've used Cascamite a lot over the years and also did some experiments with Titebond 3 which may be useful here:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEj404EhW9U If you need some gap filling its hard to beat Cascamite.