Problem with linseed oil.

[CBag]

Hi, new here.

I recently refurbished a garden bench repainting the metal ends and replacing all the wooden slats after drilling, counter boring and routing them to look nice and fit well.

I decided it would be a good idea to finish the wood using linseed oil and to start with it all looked great but now it starting to look almost like the finish is going mouldy or something.





Is there anything I can do, I'm starting to wish that I had used yacht varnish instead.

[mtr1]

Clean the mould off, either by scrubbing or sanding. Mix some zinc oxide in with the linseed oil and reapply. Something like http://www.preciousearth.co.uk/shop/viewitem.php?productid=8

[CBag]

I've tried scrubbing it with no joy so it looks like I'll have to sand it like you say.

Now that I've oiled it is varnishing a no go?

That product you have shown me looks quite expensive, if I bought that would I still be able to use the boiled linseed oil I already have afterwards.

[mtr1]

I don't think you can varnish on top of oil, so if you want to varnish you will need to sand and clean the oil off. Your first post mentioned just linseed oil only, not boiled linseed oil, there is a difference I think boiled has added driers but maybe someone more knowledgable will pipe in.

I wouldn't use varnish, it will just peel off.

Heres how I would finish outside furniture.

Get some linseed oil, it's cheap, then add the expensive zinc oxide on the first coat only. It will take 48hrs or more (this could take more than 3-4 days at this time of year) to dry unless you can heat the area you are finishing in. Then you can just use straight linseed oil for a couple more coats, should be good for years. Freshen up with straight linseed oil after 5/7years, the timber will probably go grey.

[jfc]

I oiled my boat before i varnished it .

[mralan]

It "looks" like its pine you are coating with oil? I don't think pine is a good timer choice to use Linseed oil on. You can varnish over oil - But- you would have to make sure all it is a oil based varnish you use and of course clean/sand all the wood down- so to remove all mould. I would use a good quality exterior varnish - apply at least 3 coats de - nibbing in between coats with silicon carbide paper or similar 240 grit. - Problem is - is our damm weather! You will still get mould on it if left out - but at least the mould will not get through to the wood its self. If need be - just once a year - remove all mould- lightly key the wood (varnish) with 180 and apply one coat of the same varnish. Good luck

Just as a foot note- personally I will only use oil on Teak and Oak ( English or European Oak - not American) on exterior projects.

[robgil]

Why pine? You really need to be using hard wood like Teak for a garden bench. Linseed oil for me only gets used on Oak.

[robgil]

there is a difference I think boiled has added driers but maybe someone more knowledgable will pipe in.

.

You are right, boiled linseed oil is not boiled, it has solvents added to enable quick drying times, raw linseed oil takes weeks to fully cure.