durable finish for walnut hall table

[mickthetree]

A friend has asked me to make a solid walnut top to go on a metal hall table. She says it wont get much abuse, but I want to make sure it stands up to the off alcoholic drink and hot cup of tea etc.

Needs to be a matt finish. All of the other AB walnut furniture she has is veneered so probably lacquered.

I've used shellac, oil and wax finishes before, but I'm thinking something a bit more heavy duty.

I don't have any spray gear.

Any suggestions?

[promhandicam]

Osmo polyx - no contest!

[mickthetree]

Hi Steve
I have some but had not thought it would be man enough to stand up to alcohol and hot drinks etc. I'll gladly use that if its up to the job.

[nickw]

What Steve says, PolyX but with a coat of BLO first to give it more colour.

[promhandicam]

I've used polyx on school refectory tables that get quite abused and washed down at least 3 times a day and they only needed another coat after 2 years, so I think you will be ok.

[mickthetree]

Perfect! And I have both in stock!

[mickthetree]

Hi Nick, Is that a tried and tested finish you have used with the BLO first? I have put some BLO on an off cut this evening to test it first and it looks good. Do you know how long it takes for the BLO to dry?

[Roger-M]

Mick - I tested polyX by getting a piece of oak veneered mdf, giving it 2 thin coats of polyx, and then squirting some tomato ketchup, a dash of red wine and some coffee on to it. I then placed a mug of hot (not boiling) water onto the top of the mess and left it over night. In the morning it just wiped off without leaving any trace of a mark. Brilliant stuff.

[mickthetree]

That is great to hear Roger!

Any preference on the number of coats? I have some polyx rapid to use this time. Not tried it before.

[Roger-M]

I think Osmo recommend 2 coats, and that's for floors. That's all I've used for my kitchen cabinet doors, apart from the ones below the hob where I've used 3. This left a slightly more shiny finish, and I think that if 2 are what's recommended for floors, that should be plenty for a hall table. I used the standard satin finish.

[nickw]

Hi Nick, Is that a tried and tested finish you have used with the BLO first? I have put some BLO on an off cut this evening to test it first and it looks good. Do you know how long it takes for the BLO to dry?

Yes, tried and tested - and I'm doing some at the moment as it happens. In a warm workshop, and provided the wood is wiped over so that there is no surface oil, I usually leave it overnight. I reckon it doesn't matter if it's not bone dry as the dryers in the PolyX help it along. And the thing with PolyX, as you probably know, is to not apply it too thickly either. For furniture I reckon you just need to get the wood surface wetted, but no standing oil. Then it dries in a few hours, and you can apply several thin coats over a few days giving a good build and a nice smooooth finish.

[mickthetree]

Many thanks Nick
I have just got back in from applying the BLO to the board. I had thought the grain a bit average when sanded, but it really pops out with a finish on! I'll leave it to dry overnight then have a go with the Osmo tomorrow. Yes indeed, thin coats are the way to go. I used their solid colours paint on my front door. A small tin goes so far as it brushes out and out and out. Really nice products to work with.
Thanks again for the advice. First time with Walnut and didnt want to mess it up.

[Roger-M]

Never used Osmo P on a dark wood. Photo please.

[nickw]

Several here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 584&type=3

[Roger-M]

Thanks Nick. Looks nice if that's what you used on that consol table. What do you use as a "bomb proof" finish on a pale wood where you want to minimise yellowing - say maple or sycamore?

[nickw]

Acrylic (waterborne) lacquer. With a first coat of blonde dewaxed shellac to emphasise figure if needed, but that does add a touch of warmth.

[Roger-M]

Thanks Nick. Much appreciated.

[nickw]

BTW Mick I rag all oils rather than use a brush. You can get much thinner and smoother coats, and the clean up is dead simple.

[thatsnotafestool]

BTW Mick I rag all oils rather than use a brush. You can get much thinner and smoother coats, and the clean up is dead simple.

Do you bother to stick the rags inside a metal tin in case of 'spontaneous combustion which is what some sites warn against?

[nickw]

No, I chuck them straight in the garden incinerator. But before I had one of those I hung them, opened out, over the edge of the bin to dry. Better safe than sorry.

[mickthetree]

Evening all

Just put a second coat of Osmo Polyx rapid on the walnut.



I took Nick's advice and used a coat of BLO first and have to agree that it enhances the grain and I would certainly use it again. Not convinced it shows as clearly in these photos but here is a sample piece with BLO and two coats of Osmo. Hopefully you can see there is a darker, more defined grain in a strip across the top.



The plank on the right in this one has BLO. Shows well here how it picks out the darker grain better.



Had some strange, stick tar like stuff coming out on a piece of the sapwood offcut. Is this normal? None on the heartwood.


Many thanks to you all for your help and advice!!

I too prefer applying oil finishes with a cloth. I keep them in a small jar with a tight fitting lid if I'm going to use them again next day, but if its days between coats I'll hang then out to dry then bin them or use them to light the fire

[nickw]

Here's the finish on some walnut topped and footed chests of drawers I've just completed:

[Roger-M]

Lovely. Is that Osmo Polyx Nick?

[nickw]

Yup it's PolyX over BLO.

[Roger-M]

I need to finish a non-descript hardwood (meranti?) handrail up the stairs in my daughter's house. Sounds like polyx over BLO could be the way to go. How soon can you apply the polyx over the BLO please?

[nickw]

I usually leave it overnight. But do read my caveats above.